Starting from Lijiang I cycle with a small detour to "the last paradise of the woman", Lake Lugu. It is a very difficult trip over mountain passes that are getting higher, on a road that is getting worse, but also with the remarkably dressed Yi women with their big black headgear. Eventually I see from the highest pass, 3200 m above sea level, 600 m below my beautiful lake. The Mosuo population still has a matriarchal society with very specific habits. The lake is sky blue and the rest almost intolerant.What a contrast as I continue past small dirty coal mines. It gets even darker during the entire eclipse, which I can still observe well despite the clouds.After Liangshan I have to go back into the mountains. When I have to climb again to 3000 m, it rains continuously. My hands are so numb that I can hardly switch. After the descent I drive for 2 days to Leshan with its largest Buddha carved into the rocks.Two days later I reach Chengdu, the capital of Sechuan province. Despite its size, I find it a very pleasant city, where especially the lively "People's park" is my favorite place.